Congratulations on getting your laser engraver! You’re probably eager to start etching intricate designs onto wood, acrylic, leather, and more. But before you fire up the laser, there’s a crucial duo you need to master: Speed and Power. These two settings are the foundation of every successful laser job, and understanding their interplay is the key to transforming your ideas into reality.
This beginner’s cheat sheet will demystify speed and power, explain how they work together, and provide a starting point for common materials. Think of it as your launchpad into the world of laser crafting.
Understanding the Core Duo: Speed & Power
Imagine your laser beam as a tiny, super-heated paintbrush. Power determines how hot that brush is, while Speed controls how fast it moves across your material.
Power (0-100%): This setting controls the intensity of the laser beam. A higher power percentage means a hotter, more intense beam that removes material faster and cuts deeper. However, too much power can lead to unwanted burning, charring, or even setting your material on fire. Lower power is gentler, ideal for light engraving or delicate materials.
Speed (mm/s or in/s): This setting controls how fast the laser head moves. A slower speed means the laser spends more time on each spot, delivering more energy and resulting in a deeper cut or darker engraving. A faster speed means less energy is delivered per spot, leading to a lighter engraving or a shallower cut.
The Golden Rule: Speed and Power are Inversely Related.
High Power + Low Speed = Maximum energy delivered. This combination is for deep cuts or very dark engravings, but it carries the highest risk of burning.
Low Power + High Speed = Minimal energy delivered. This is perfect for light surface marking, scoring, or working with thin, delicate materials.
High Power + High Speed = Can be used for fast, shallow cuts or engravings, but requires careful calibration.
Low Power + Low Speed = Results in a slow, light engraving. Often unnecessary and inefficient.
Why “Settings” Aren’t Universal: Your Laser, Your Materials
Here’s the critical part: There is no single “perfect” setting for any material. Why? Because every laser engraver is slightly different. Factors like:
Laser Wattage: A 40W laser behaves very differently from a 10W diode laser.
Laser Type: CO2, diode, and fiber lasers interact with materials in distinct ways.
Focal Length & Lens: The size and type of lens affect the beam’s focus and intensity.
Material Variability: Wood density, acrylic thickness, anodized aluminum coating thickness, and even humidity can change how a material reacts.
Therefore, the settings provided below are ONLY A STARTING POINT. You MUST perform test engravings (often called “test grids”) on scrap pieces of your actual material to find the optimal settings for YOUR machine and YOUR specific project.
Beginner’s Starting Point Guide (For a Typical 40W CO2 Laser)
Use these as a baseline and adjust incrementally (e.g., 5% power or 10mm/s speed).
Material
Engraving (B&W Image/Line Art)
Cutting (Vector Lines)
Notes
Balsa Wood
50% Power, 150 mm/s
30% Power, 10 mm/s
Very soft wood. High speed, low power for engraving. Prone to burning.
Plywood (3mm)
60% Power, 100 mm/s
80% Power, 8 mm/s
Test different layers. May need multiple passes for cutting.
Hardwood (Maple, Oak)
70% Power, 80 mm/s
90% Power, 5 mm/s
Dense wood requires higher power and slower speeds. Can char easily.
Acrylic (3mm)
40% Power, 100 mm/s
80% Power, 10 mm/s
Crucial: Use masking tape to prevent surface scratches. Aim for a clean, polished edge. Too much power causes melting.
Glass
20% Power, 150 mm/s
Not Recommended
Use a light etch. Requires a glass-specific setting. High risk of cracking.
Leather (Genuine)
50% Power, 120 mm/s
60% Power, 10 mm/s
Can produce a nice browned effect. Test for desired darkness.
Felt/Fabric
30% Power, 150 mm/s
40% Power, 20 mm/s
Very fast. High speeds prevent burning and melting.
Anodized Aluminum
30% Power, 200 mm/s
Not Recommended
Removes the colored oxide layer, revealing the shiny metal underneath.
Cardboard
40% Power, 100 mm/s
60% Power, 15 mm/s
Can produce a lot of smoke. Ensure excellent ventilation.
Pro Tips for Finding Your Perfect Settings
Always Test First: Never start on your final piece. Use identical scrap material.
Create a Test Grid: Design a simple grid with your software. Vary the power (e.g., 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%) down one axis and the speed (e.g., 100, 120, 140, 160 mm/s) across the other. One engraving run gives you 16 data points!
Adjust One Variable at a Time: Change only the power OR the speed between tests. This makes it clear what caused the change in result.
Look for the “Sweet Spot”: For engraving, you want a clear, consistent mark without excessive charring or a deep, wide groove. For cutting, you want a clean, complete cut through the material without excessive burning on the edges.
Mind the Fumes and Fire Risk: Always use your exhaust system! Keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Never leave your laser unattended.
Focus is Key: Ensure your laser is properly focused on the material’s surface. An out-of-focus beam is less effective and can cause inconsistent results.
Clean Your Lens: A dirty lens scatters the laser beam, reducing power and causing uneven engraving. Clean it regularly with lens paper and appropriate cleaner.
Consider Multiple Passes: Sometimes, two lighter passes (e.g., 50% power, 2 passes) produce a cleaner, less burned result than one heavy pass (100% power, 1 pass).
Conclusion
Mastering laser settings is part art, part science. While this cheat sheet gives you a solid foundation, the real learning happens through experimentation. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes – they’re valuable lessons. By understanding the relationship between speed and power and diligently testing on your specific materials, you’ll quickly develop an intuition for your machine. Soon, you’ll be confidently creating beautiful, professional-quality engravings and precise cuts. Happy lasering!
